I'm enjoying a few days of relaxation in Mallorca, staying at Inturotel Cala Esmeralda, opposite the beautiful cove that gives it its name. I spend the day reading in the shade of the pine trees, diving into the turquoise sea and planning a visit or two to the island’s hidden corners. For days now, an idea has been on my mind: visiting the Mondragó Natural Park.

I had been told about it, I was looking for something more than a tourist excursion, a route where I could get lost and reconnect with the natural beauty of the southeast coast of the island, its coves, its Mediterranean forest, its almond groves... An adventure for the 5 senses, which deserved to be travelled on foot or by bike. I decided that I would arrive by bike, a more environmentally friendly way of getting into the park slowly, enjoying every detail as I approached.

The journey begins on two wheels

The day dawned warm, with that September sun that caresses the skin without burning. After a delicious breakfast I set off on my bike in search of the most genuine Mediterranean. Towards landscapes preserved practically in the same way as they were found by the first settlers of the island. We start the route with a first station, the beautiful natural harbour of Portopetro, where we enjoy the views of the bay and its fishermen's houses. Soon we leave the hustle and bustle of this small coastal town to enter the domain of the park. I am welcomed by fields dotted with almond trees, carob trees and the occasional fig tree. Cycling with the gentle wind in my face, the smell of the sea and the fragrance of the pine trees made me feel part of the landscape. The park could already be perceived and my heart was racing with the expectation of new horizons to discover.

The welcome of nature

I parked my bike at the entrance to the park, feeling proud to have opted for a sustainable and silent means of transport. The path I chose to start my journey was an open invitation to silence and contemplation. My feet resounded softly on the stones and the dusty earth, the smell of pine enveloped me like a blanket of forgotten memories. The Mediterranean forest greets you with an ancient calm, reminding you that it has been there much longer than we have.

I walked slowly, noticing how the landscape changed with every step. The sun's rays pierced the tops of the pine trees, creating shadows on the ground, while in the distance I could hear the gentle murmur of the waves. I took a deep breath, trying to retain that unique aroma: a mixture of resin, herbs and saltpetre. Mondragó is not just a place you visit, it is a place that invades you body and soul and where you feel in communion with the environment and its inhabitants.

A shared paradise: the fauna and flora of Mondragó

As I walked along the path, my eyes were lost in the details: the variety of plants that grow here is astonishing. Trees such as sivina, some centenarians, tamarinds, wild olive trees, majestic pines and shrubs such as laburnum, rosemary... The flora of Mondragó invites you to take a closer look, and try to identify species that, at first glance, might go unnoticed. From the delicate wild flowers to the robust Aleppo pines, everything seems to have a purpose, a place in this well-preserved ecosystem. In spring you can see wild orchids, some of which are endemic to the island.

The park is also a haven for wildlife, and I was lucky enough to come across some of its inhabitants. I heard the song of a great tit (Parus major), so difficult to observe and so beneficial to the Mediterranean forest as it feeds on the pine processionary. As I approached the wetlands, a grey heron soared majestically over the water, as if welcoming me. At that moment I understood why Mondragó is a sanctuary for bird lovers. Here you have the opportunity to see the most common Balearic birds such as the Hoopoe (Upupa epops), the partridge, the blackcap (Sylvia Melanocephala), migratory species such as the robin (Erithacus rubecula) and some very difficult to observe species such as the colourful plumage of the European Bee-eater (Merpos apiaster). I was surprised how easily one can become a birdwatcher by exploring this natural paradise.

A secret corner: Cala Mondragó and S'Amarador

The path finally led me to the beach. The first beach you come across is Cala Mondragó, a spectacular beach with white sand and crystal clear waters. I took off my shoes and dug my feet into the sand, approached the shore, the water was cold but comforting, and for a moment, everything stopped.

A few minutes later, in an indescribable walk along the edge of the cliff, I reached S'Amarador, which awaited me with its serene calm, less crowded and wilder than Cala Mondragó. It was impossible to resist the temptation of a swim, and plunging into its turquoise blue waters was like being born again. As I floated, gazing up at the blue sky, I felt that the park had offered me a gift that I would treasure on my return from my trip and wish to relive very soon.

Trails that tell stories

After the revealing swim, I continued my route through the park walking between the cliffs. The route to Sa Guàrdia d'en Garrot took me through landscapes where the land meets the sea in an eternal embrace. From the top, the sea seems endless, and the views take your breath away.

As I walked, I couldn't help thinking about how many people would have walked these same paths before me. From prehistoric times, when the first inhabitants left their mark on this land, to the present day.

One of the park's guides explained to me that the cliffs have traces of Myotragus Balearicus, a small extinct mammal, a distant relative of the goat.

The park is home to Talayotic burial caves and in its cliffs there are hypogeum, underground vaults that in ancient times were used to preserve corpses without burning them.

The park keeps its secrets, its stories, and if you walk slowly, with an open heart, it whispers some of them to you. Throughout the year the park organises workshops and guided tours to show you its natural heritage, you can find out more at: https://www.illesbalears.travel/ca/mallorca/parc-natural-mondrago

A visit that becomes a ritual

On the way back, my bicycle was waiting for me like an old friend. And as I pedalled back, with the sun already lowering on the horizon, I realised that the Mondragó natural park is not a place you go only once. It is a place you return to, again and again, because each visit offers you something new. A scent you've never smelled before, a blanket of lilac flowers covering the path, the sea breeze swaying the tamarinds that border the pond... everything reminds you how small you are in the midst of so much beauty.

Visiting the Mondragó natural park in a conscious way, choosing whether to cycle, walk or take the bus, is more than an ecological decision. It is a way of paying homage to this natural treasure, of thanking it for all that it offers us and of ensuring that it will continue to be here, for those who come after us.

Will I go back? Without a doubt. Mondragó is already part of me. And there is no better option to visit this wonderful natural park than staying in Cala d'Or, I stayed at Inturotel Cala Esmeralda, one of the hotels of the family chain Inturotel, whose hotels offer the best rest in unique locations in front of the sea or in the picturesque centre of Cala d'Or.